My Love Story With India (Part 8)

FAHTEPUR SIKRI: Home of the Beautiful Ghost Town

Just at the boundary between leaving Jaipur and entering Uttah Pradesh, the watch tower and boundary wall of the first capital of the Moguls welcomes us with enthusiasm.

Thinking our next port of call would be the following day after I’ve settled into a hotel and rested, I was surprised when our driver announced that our next port of call begins right away! We have just barely crossed the wall city on the outskirts leading into Jaipur! There was no point protesting as we were whisked off to the city palace that once reigned as far back as the 1500s. And what we saw, I must say I was not ready for it!

Once our legs touched the red earth of hard stone, we knew instantly that time has stopped here!

This place, this Mogul City, this deserted walled city of red sandstone, palaces and towers is Fatehpur Sikri – a ghost town of a once fledging dynasty.

This incredible town filled with so much history was built over a 12-year period by the Muhgal emperor Akbar from 1569 to 1585. He had three wives; One Hindu, One Muslim and One Catholic wife, each to her own quarters. He was a very religiously tolerant man. For years none of his wives bore him a son. Then one day a Muslim Imam prayed for him that he would have a son. That prayer was fulfilled as the Hindu wife, Jodhabai became pregnant. Because she bore him the son he’s searched for many years, he built a huge palace dedicated only to her (Jodhabai’s Palace). Today that huge palace with many rooms but no windows, wall paintings or any decorations remains as it was. 

On the other hand, the Muslim wife had only one room but its walls are lined with mirrors and diamonds. While the Catholic wife had four rooms decorated with gold and paintings. Besides his three wives, there were some 365 concubines who often gathered at the harem of gardens to delight the king with merriment, dance, laughter and prayers.

After choosing this site to build his empire, the emperor realized he needed to build an artificial lake to survive the scarcity of water in the area. Unfortunately, the water ran dry after just 3 years of habitation. Realizing his error, he moved his entire harem, gold, family, soldiers, guards and all to a new location, leaving behind the planned walls, royal palaces, graveyard, towers, harem courtyards, pavilions, a mosque, private quarters and other utility buildings.

Today Fatehpur Sikri, a Unesco heritage site, stands as one of the best preserved architecture of Mughal splendor and India embellishments.

And now it is time to drive the next 20 kilometres to our next port of call. First hot bath, great food them some sound sleep. For tomorrow promises to be really exciting!

Agra may be famous for the Taj Mahal, but the other untold story is that it has the largest mental hospital in India. The people here are generally aggressive in expression, language, behaviour and business. The residents break traffic laws without qualms. often the mental hospital is overcrowded with no specific room to admit the mentally ill. This can be seen sometimes when mentally ill patients who have escaped from the mental facility take up the job of police men controlling traffic.

Illegal migrants see Agra as a safe haven. And the lucrative sale of marijuana is also a strong attraction for illegal activities. The mountainous region of Asis is famous for the natural growing marijuana which grows luxuriantly in these parts. Smuggling of marijuana from Asis by foreigners is common place; many claiming India nationality to fix themselves permanently closer to this fertile region where marijuana grows plentiful.

Prior to this time though, it used to be a non-illegal practice to take or use these natural plant and its products until it came into the international limelight. It would seem as though Agra has joined the computer game world of illegal activities. 

The ‘Dakot’ are highway thieves who rob with horses but now do so on bikes. The original legend though says that the Dakot were once the Robin Hood of the poor who attack merchants who tease the poor ones because of their caste status. When they steal from these merchants they then give these to the poor. But nowadays, when they steal, they take the monies for themselves rather than give the stolen money to the poor. Either way, as long as the poor take stolen properties or money not theirs, they inadvently may have spurn a terrible set of modern robbers.

Incidentally, Uttar Pradesh means upside down. Perhaps that explains an untold story worth finding out later.

You never get used to seeing a cow just enter an expressway and claim a right of way the way they do in India, and the reason for this is that even the cows pay their taxes by providing milk!

Trains are another interesting sight that greets your eyes in India: old and metro trains alike. India trains are exceptionally long housing 1^st, 2^nd and 3^rd classes. The AC-Class is usually at the back of the old-styled trains. In the metro, the first compartments are especially reserved for women and girls. No man is allowed to cross into that threshold.

As night falls, we drove past a circus designed in all its glorious original 70s style of how circus ran in the U.S. When I finally got into my room at this luxurious hotel, I hit the sheets and sleep cuddled me away to dreamland.

And just when I thought I've nothing will surprise me in such a delightful and surreal manner, the next day,I experienced the incredibleness of India. We are going to the Taj Mahal.

TAJ MAHAL

Taj Mahal, the white marble mausoleum inlaid with semi-precious stones is beauty personified; a breathtaking splendor! – the definition of a true Mughal architecture; spotless marble masonry with unblemished purity.

To some, the Taj Mahal may be a grandiose expense but after listening to our guide narrates the story behind this architectural splendor, I concluded this was an Ode to one man’s great personal sense of deep loss – Emperor Shah Jahan – to his most beloved Mumtaz Mahal.

Although Emperor Shah Jahan had three other wives apart from Mumtaz, his was a tale of ‘you can’t choose who you fall in love with’. However, for some who may feel it was unfair to have shown her such overblown attention, here’s what may have contributed to his falling in love with her: he’s known her since she was a little girl. She grew in beauty and stature in his eyes. And when he finally married her, she was the one wife who never critised him openly even though she would do so in private when they’re both alone. Even at that, she was a great listener, supporter, confidante and lover who championed his course like a great cheerleader long before date took her away while giving birth to her 14^th and last child.

Commissioned in 1632 and seated on the southern bank of the Yamuna River, it took 37 architects, 20,000 artisans and 22 years at the cost of 32 million rupees ($827 million US present day) to complete this magnificent piece of embellished architecture to perfection as the Shah Jahan desired it. Unfortunately it came at a cost on its inhabitants who struggled with poverty as all effort and monies was dedicated to the completion of the Taj.

The dome architecture of the Taj along with gardens and two red-sandstone buildings is surrounded by a crenellated wall on three sides. The main architect credited for overseeing and bringing this masterpiece together was Ustad Ahmad Lahauri. The minarets, which are more than 40 metres (130 ft) are a master design in symmetry and optical illusion, so that in the event of or collapse or earthquakes, these minarets will fall away from the tomb onto the surrounding pavement or river; thus preserving the mausoleum from damage.

Somehow, the emperor got a bit carried away with the successful completion of the Taj Mahal began to have more grandiose ideas of building another Taj! This was to be named the Black Taj – a black mausoleum specially dedicated to him just across the Yamuna River opposite the Taj Mahal with the two structures connected by a bridge. But his son, Aurangzeb would have none of that. He deposed his father and threw him in prison, where of course he died with his big dreams.

Almost 400 years ago since it was built, and over 50 million visitors, the Taj Mahal continues to fascinate, inspire and pull people from all over the world to renew their vows, rekindle their love or simply to see what having deep romantic love can conjure up. This love story is far better than Romeo and Juliet. And that is why The Taj Mahal will always remain the perfect symbol of romantic love. Today it belongs to the elite club of New7Wonders of the World.

To preserve this masterpiece from the Mughal Empire, cars and other vehicles are not allowed within a 500 metres radius of this structure. This is to prevent the attendant fumes, fossil fuels and petrol combustions from motor exhausts from polluting the air into smug falls back as impurities in during raining periods. Only gulf cars provided by the government are allowed to take you direct to the security post that leads into the Taj Mahal complex. You can even sense this level of hygiene and cleanliness amongst the poorest of the Indians - a beautiful way of living.

Constant repairs, cleaning and dusting to preserve the minarets, marble and inlaid-stones used to built the Taj is non-negotiable. That is why today it sits as one of the Wonders of the World.

Proposed sight of Black Tajal...

As we drive off ready to head back to Delhi, we decided to make a quick stop at the less famous Black Taj. On the way we noticed excited children in school uniforms ready to start their day. The colours for basic students it seems was mustard-coloured suits, trousers, shirts and scarves.

The fog around the site for the Black Taj, known as the Moonlight Garden, Mahtab Bagh was made thick by the evaporation from the large orchid surrounding it. Beautifully arranged trees and shrubs adorn the area. A look at the size of the initial construction site bespeaks of another grand structure that never saw the light of day. You’ve got to watch the video to see what I mean.

For me, my trip to India has been a mesmerizing experience of serendipities. I am so totally in love with Incredible India!

Till we meet again, Old Fine Country.

Back to Part 1: http://ladyechannel.blogspot.com.ng/2015/11/my-love-story-with-india-part-1-my-trip.html

Part-2:http://ladyechannel.blogspot.com.ng/2015/11/my-love-story-with-india-part-2-new.html.

Part 3: http://ladyechannel.blogspot.com.ng/2015/11/love-story-with-india-part-3-delhi.html.

Part-4:http://ladyechannel.blogspot.com.ng/2015/11/my-love-story-with-india-part-4-my-love.html.

Part 5: http://ladyechannel.blogspot.com.ng/2015/11/my-love-story-with-india-part-5.html.

Part-6:http://ladyechannel.blogspot.com.ng/2015/11/my-love-story-with-india-part-6-jaipur.html

Part 7: http://ladyechannel.blogspot.com.ng/2015/11/my-love-story-with-india-part-7.html
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