Monday, November 23, 2015


My Love Story With India (Part 2)

NEW DELHI 


The capital of India is New Delhi. This is the city for hustlers.

For me it is reminiscent of the rowdy bustle and hustle of Mushin, the large moving crowd of Ajegunle, the old-styled colonial houses and new architecture of Ebute-Meta and Yaba in Nigeria all roll into one.


Delhi is the Green City of India; a champion for a greener environment with the greatest number of trees, shrubs and vegetables so common place.

Historically speaking, as far back as the 1300s, Delhi has always been known as the capital of India. But during the beginning of the British Raj which began in 1858, the British ruled by fiat from Calcutta making it the default capital. But due to rising tensions and hostilities between the Indians and British, to make their rule more central as well as douse the ragging internal conflicts, in 1911, King George V during the famous Durbar shifted the capital from Calcutta back to its original capital, Delhi. Only this time the location was not the former Old Delhi, the original Mughal city, but the area we now know as New Delhi. Today the English pronunciation of Calcutta has been reverted to the India English phonetic transliteration Kolkata, which is closer its original Bengali name.

The sheer size of Delhi is vast. A bustling cosmopolitan metropolis, Delhi’s core business in commerce, medical tourism, arts, cinemas/entertainment, restaurants, hotel and hospitality, tourism, fashion, professional services, transportation: taxis, rickshaws, tuk-tuk, horseback, metros, buses, bicycles, bikes, low and high end vehicle manufacturing, finance, education and other ancillary businesses numbering into the hundreds makes it a number one business hub. 

I had a particularly interesting experience at the cinemas. If you've ever watched India films, you'll know that it takes average of 3-hours to finish watching one. Well, I had quite forgotten about all that. So here was I seated and watching the movie EVEREST (great cast, powerful story), and exactly one hour thirty minutes later, the movie stopped abruptly, a black screen stated briefly at me! I thought 'NEPA' had taken light or their was a malfunction from the generator or something. But lo! A sign popped up on the screen and announced: "INTERMISSION". I roared with laughter. And guess what? Intermission was as long as 20-30 minutes. Which gives you enough time to visit the ladies or gents and buy some more popcorn. Not baad, eh?


Delhi is strategically located in North of India. It is home for all things government: executive, legislative, embassies, and judiciary. While in Nigeria we have governors, in India they call them mayors, just like the U.S.A.

New Delhi has over 10 radio stations just like we have in cities like Ibadan, Lagos, Abuja and Port Harcourt. Similar frequency dials and names such as 93.5 FM and Capital FM in India are akin to radio stations synonymous to Nigeria stations like Capital FM Abuja.

RELIGION

In a country where over 750 languages are spoken, according to The People’s Linguistic Survey of India, at least 22 languages are nationally recognized as a lingua franca in India such as: Urdu, Konkani, Hindi, Kannada, Assamese, Punjabi, Gujurati, Telugu, Kashmiri, Malayalam, Tamil, Sanskrit, Bengali, Manipuri, Marathi, Odia, including India English. However in the last 50 years, 250 of these languages have died out.

In New Delhi, religion cuts across Hinduism, Islam, Sikhism, Jainism, Baha’i Faith, and other religions in minority like Christianity. The famous Lotus Temple of the Baha’i House of Worship which attracts more than 70 million visitors is a breathtaking edifice. Everything about the design interiorly and exteriorly is repeated in multiples of the number 9: nine reflecting pools, nine doors, multiples of nine diamond-shaped ceilings and crossbeams. Incidentally, Lotus is a symbol of love and purity. This awesome architecture was built by Persian architect Fariborz Sahba. Made of white marble, cement, dolomite and standing at 40 metres, the Lotus Temple architecture commands resplendent beauty like the Taj Mahal of Agra. No wonder it’s such a centre of tourist attraction.

TRANSPORTATION

What struck me most about Delhi is the incredible concomitant continuum of its transportation system! It feels like on every road you drive pass or walk through, technological history follows you arm in arm everywhere you turn. Time seems to have stood still yet still in continuous motion. In India it is typical to come face to face with the many array and modes of transportation existing in one single lane! You’ll find a cow-drawn cart, horse rider, strolling elephant with a seated rider, rickshaws, tuk-tuk, bicycle peddler, power bikers, low and high end vehicles of every brand all in the same traffic.


As I walk through the estate blocks in Delhi, I simply never get used to seeing this sort of juxtaposition of transportation: a vast mixed blend where ancient technology meets modern and post modern innovation in the same space. I’m in awe of this land. If you want to learn the history of how mankind evolved from leg transportation to the supersonic metros of today, India makes the best place to begin your research.

The old style black British vehicles otherwise known as Hackney carriage, Beardmore, LTI TX1 cab, LTI FX4 cab, commonly used as taxis in the UK are today in India exclusively driven by ambassadors. Hindustani Motors’ Ambassador still produces and sells this brand in India.


Unlike in Nigeria where jeeps of all kinds, shapes and brand are a declaration of “I have arrived”, until I left Delhi – which was over a three weeks stay – I only counted four jeeps! I was later told that it was mostly from the hours of midnight on that jeeps become a common sight. Even at night where owners of jeeps consider it the best time to drive their cars in a less crowded traffic road, you can still count the number of jeeps.

There are only 3 cars in India for every 1,000 Indians compared to say a place like Nigeria where that ratio is far between. Goldman Sachs has predicted that India will have the maximum number of cars on the planet by 2050 overtaking the United States which is currently at 500 cars for every 1,000 American. Small low-end economy cars costing less than two million naira are the in-thing cars all over India with tens of manufacturing and assembly car companies, both high and low end brands locally producing to meet the local market of the fast growing India economy. The EMI payment system makes it easy too to owe and pay for a car.


In all, there are no less than 23 manufacturing car companies in India. Many foreign car manufacturers like Roys Royce, Bentley and Maybach are a few of the high end brands manufacturing cars in India. Indigenous vehicle manufacturers include: The Tata Indica of Tatat Motors, Mahindra and Mahindra came up with SUVs, the Scorpio and the Bolero. These cars are very popular in India everywhere you look and they are also exported to European markets. According to Indiabizclub.com an electric car is also manufactured by a local company REVA. Tata plans to produce the world’s first air powered cars in partnership with MDI of France.


Everywhere you go you see all kinds of brand cars and their extensions: Suzuki, Honda, Chennai, Maruti 800, Bugatti Veyron, Chevrolet, BMW, Hyundai, Austin, Honda, Ford, Noida, Mercedes-Benz, Mahindra Reanult, Verna, Pune, Lucknow, Singur, Toyota.

The colour white is the most preferred colour of choice by all class and caste: low maintenance (shows off less scratch, easy to clean, dusts are not that noticeable on white cars compared to black cars sitting outside in the hot sun and dusty atmosphere of India; less heat absorption in India’s very hot climate, affordability and of course the status attached to the trending colour of the time). In the past however, silver was the colour of choice. Today all over India, white and silver are the preferred car colours.

As there are cars, so there are many models of cycle manufacturers of motorcycles, power bikes and scooters with their brand extensions traversing all over India: Aprilia, Harley Davidson, Honda, Kawasaki, Moto Guzzi, Suzuki, Yamaha, Bajaj, Ducati, Hero Electric, Hyosung, KTM, Piaggio, Triumph, BMW, Hero Moto Corp, Indian Motocycles, Mahindra, Royal Enfield, TVS. 

Included in this unique ‘cycle manufacturing are the ubiquitous bicycles claiming their right of way on all India roads, tourist centres, baghs (villages and gardens), harts (markets), malls, offices, and homes. Although many bicycle brands do not manufacture their own product, but rather import and re-brand bikes manufactured by others, there are nonetheless bicycle parts manufacturing companies littered all over India; many brands from Europe: Italy, UK, Netherlands, New Zealand, France, Spain, Germany, Denmark and across the US, Brazil, Canada, Belarus, Czech Republic, Japan, etc.


Add to this many forms of travel are the old-style train coaches and modern metros eating up the staggering population of Indians caring on everyday activities, doing business or simply enjoying their tourist experience from one place to another. You would think with this amount of vehicles on the roads, traffic accidents would be high, yet ironically that is not the case! Until I left Delhi – and that was over a three-week stay – I never witnessed a single accident, not even a car scratch but lots of near misses that makes your tongue jump from the back of your mouth leaving you with a heady feeling.

Delhi was so much fun and discovery. The restaurants, especially the ones with gourmet chef make the best place to eat as they delight your taste buds with flavours like you’ve never tasted them before: Thai cuisine, Indian, Chinese, and European dishes for your pleasure only. While at it, don’t be afraid to experiment with some local roadside snacks too. You’ll be surprised. But please make sure you do that in the company of an India friend (wink!). Click on the link to Part 3 below to read more about the social life of Indians and the secret a woman at a Punjap store shared with me.















                   My Love Story With India (Part 3)                         

DELHI: Social Life

I find the social life of Indians in Delhi very fascinating. Business does not begin until 11:00 a.m. and runs till as late as the business owner chooses to remain open. It reminds me of an adage in Yoruba that says ‘Suru laiye gba’ – no hurry in life. You visit places like Karol Bagh towards evening and if feels as though the city suddenly sprung to life with gusto and dare, the shops alive to making sales.

There is indeed a strong burgeoning middle and sub-middle class here. That becomes more apparent when you visit the Connaught Place Mall or the Pacific Malls, a lavish huge building three stories high housing all the big name brands both foreign and local in clothing, eateries, accessories, marts, shops, and the likes. This is where you come to experience the cinema. Europeans, Chinese and Americans who are used to seeing huge malls will love it here. But if you’re a Nigerian, and the only mall you’ve seen before your arrival India is that in Lekki, Abuja, Warri or Ibadan, you’ll simply open your mouth in wonder; more like thunderstruck with the sheer size and beauty of it.

When you go to Connaught place, there’s nothing you’re looking for that you will not get: premium hotels, high class cuisines, clubs, shopping centres, tourist guides, pharmacies, bookshops, eateries like McDonalds, Nandos, Tasty Fried Chicken and much more.

All sorts of cuisines and palates are attended to when you arrive at any of these malls: English, India, Thai, and Chinese and maybe with a little persuasion and creative genius on your part, you just might see an African dish presented in front of you. I won’t ask you to count on that though. So be ready for a mouth exploring adventure and simply immerse yourself in it and enjoy it. After all, you’re a tourist in Incredible India!

Another aspect of their lifestyle I find intriguing is what is called Joint Families. It is not uncommon to see mature girls and guys living in and sharing the same flat, building or family house whether it’s made of mud, cement or marble. Matter of fact, there’s no shame in this and no one is made to feel in a hurry to dash out of the home to ‘live on their own’ away from the herd as it would seem. I find that even in this setting, you find guys and babes with well paying jobs who have all the reasons to simply ‘be on my own’, but choose not to. Some even run a business from the home, in which surprisingly the mother becomes the cashier! That doesn’t seem to be the pattern here, unlike like the US, UK and Southern Nigeria where the in-thing is for individualistic determinism away from the home front.

It suddenly struck me how this style of living has its merits too: everyone keeps an eye on the other. Mothers can go to work knowing someone will look after their little ones without the fear of being molested. In an environment where cousins of first and ancient generations live close knit, the feelings of loneliness quite common amongst many youth and older adults in many parts of the UK and US is not that felt here because there’s always someone to reach out to. That is not to say disagreements do not arise, but everyone wakes up to the reality of they need to ‘grow up’ and be reasonable in their expectations, attitudes and have respect for the values inherent in such clusters. That is why suicide when it happens in India is not caused out of loneliness or abandonment but rather due to the associated issues of caste, mental health, and the attendant effects of socio-economic confinements, rules and sabotage which causes family and community problems as seen expressed in Bollywood movies. Suicide is not frowned upon per say in India even though it is not encouraged as there are certain ‘unspoken indigenous strict religious rules’ that guide it, making it neither an ignoble act nor an act of justification. In India it is more of a way out, rather than a wanton urge to shock.

LOVE,  MARRIAGE and ROMANCE

Amidst all this, love and romance is always in the air! And in india, there are at least 8 ways to get married. In which case the prospective have a say or don’t, which also depends of the WHY or reason for that particular marriage. A bride could be married off in arranged marriage (Brahmana, or Daiva derivatives), or for cooperation in the study and practice of spiritual life (Arsha); Prajapatya (in which a bride chooses her groom based on the quality of stock or genepool of the intended), or Rakshasa (the girl is abducted from her home against her will ; sometimes because of fear of opposition from the girl’s family), Asura (the bride’s family is first lavishly presented with unimaginable gifts, booms or wealth to show how serious the groom to be is) or through Pisacha (in which the woman is seduced into sexual relations through intoxication with wine, flattery, emotional pressure) or by Gandharva (the intendeds declare their love for each and this type of marriage is purely for romantic desire and sensual pleasure). So which will you choose? I’m already full of mirth at your possible choices!


No matter the choice made, Karma Sutra – the essence of deep romance between two lovers – couples – is non-negotiable. Even the warriors or Sikhs that I first found a wee bit intimidating are a romantic and poetic lot when you get to know them better (forget that turban they wear!); neither should you be fooled by the aura of calm you see about them that seem like a second cloth they put on. And as caste goes in India, the Sikhs differentiate themselves on the basis of the colour of the turban they wear. Even amongst this caste, there are several sub-castes and name ancestry that is not taken for granted.

I was at the shop buying saris and Punjab suits when the lady attending to my affairs, whispered gently to me; “Why does it take Nigerian men a long time to marry?” I was a little thrown off by her openness (this I realize is a common thing amongst India women – no holds bar when they really want to talk). And I asked her, how long have you guys been together? She said five years. So what do you think is the problem, I asked again. And she said the guy is claiming economic factor as India weddings are beyond costly even amongst the poorest ones. Imagine hosting 10,000 to 100, 000 persons in a day or for as long as many days or even a week or two? But what really got be giggling was when she said “Nigeria men don’t know romance!” I burst into a gale of laughter. I just couldn’t help myself! Nigeria men can learn a thing or two about how to be romantic from the Sikhs. And if you recall, India is the home of Kama sutra the very essence and depth of how love between two people can be physically expressed to its highest form and expression of pure joy, satisfaction and bliss.

Mughal King and Queen
- Love, Marriage & Romance
India is a country where people, like Romeo and Juliet would die for love. And they’ve been at it longer that Romeo and Juliet were ever penned down by Shakespeare! In fact, it is not uncommon for a girl to propose to a guy unlike in Nigeria where that is still a struggle especially amongst a cross section of guys with complex issues. In India, just a pocket of similar minded guys behave in that manner. Overall though, she still retains her dignity even if she’s the first to ask the man out. The grownup and manly response is either the guy says “Why not” or “I don’t think I’m ready for that”. Either way, the guy conducts himself well and treats the woman with respect. And hey! That never puts a wrinkle on their friendships. That’s a cue some ‘naughty’ guys need to take home, don’t you think?

Entering the metro on my way to India Gate, I found out the front coach is strictly reserved for the women folk: girls, ladies and women. No man dare cross that threshold. This was designed such that in the ensuing tight confinements often experienced while in the trains due to high volume human traffic, no girl would cry of being molested neither will any man be accused of ‘fiddling’.


Delhi is an important trade centre for harts or markets where artisans and craftsmen come to ply their wares. The traders come from all parts of India to trade. Getting to Dilli Hart, I was struck by the array of handicrafts, designs, textures, art, and richness of the handmade crafts. Be sure to stop over at these designated markets to shop for some of the best handcrafts to take home as souvenirs or mementos. 

Red Fort

Don’t forget to visit the museums, heritage sites and colossal forts in Delhi! When you visit The Red Fort, Salimgarh Fort and Siri Fort, history speaks to you when you visit these sites. They tell of the succession of conquerors and the conquered; of invasion and power; of might and defeat. But most of all they reveal how the minds of our ancestors are simply a reflection of how man was bound to have evolve to where we are today. There’s so much man can learn; so much to discover. The day we stop asking or say ‘I don’t know’, then we stop learning, discovering and knowing. May you never stop wanting to know. 

Ever heard of the Millennium City? Kingdom of Dreams? That's where part 4 of this series takes you to. Click on the link below for more India stories and discoveries.














Attribution: Red Fort by Alex Furr.

My Love Story With India (Part 4)


THE MILLENIUM CITY

Image result for gurgaon skylineBehold Gurgaon the Millennium City! And aptly so.

Gurgaon is the definition of all things technology and sophistication – the Silicon Valley of India; the centre for international multinational companies like Google, Accenture, Bestech Cyperpark, high-rise buildings and lots of greenery. Beautiful high-rise apartments and buildings whether for private, office or public use adorn the city of Gurgaon.

Image result for gurgaon skylineGurgaon used to be an agricultural province, but within the last 25 years it has metamorphosed into a world class multinational cities within a city from all walks of life is situated. High rise buildings, post modern architecture, bridges, good road network, well cultivated greenery. It is also home to the Indira Gandhi Airport

This is the home to the beautiful magical world of KOD, Kingdom of Dreams. The first time I stepped inside KOD, I was mesmerized. I loved the emotions it evoked, the longing it cried for and I was beside myself with mirth. The design, the craftsmanship, architecture, and activities in KOD shows a lot of thought was given to making it just that: A MAGICAL WORLD.

The magic illusion of Kingdom of dreams where only nighttime is the only reality with an illusionary beautiful blue sky dotted with permanent glittering stars often leaves you wondering why it’s not day time yet. Ha!

If you want a feel of India theatre like Broadway, KOD is where you want to experience that. I was actually blown away by Tejas, a young man who knew his art of illusion. Sitting on the platform as he played sweet cunning tricks on my mind (even though I told myself time and again that I won’t be fooled), I ended up utterly enjoying myself, and so did the little girl Amita and her mother along with three other guys who were thoroughly as spell bound as I was.

As you drive further south, the city’s architecture is a throwback to styles of the 60s and 80s (India brick designs) interspersed with more modern sophisticated glass and marble buildings.


Ongoing construction of high rise buildings are a constant feature – like the city is burning and itching to re-assert itself and reach the sky in response to the dazzling brilliance of the sun’s rays towards it– like a grass stretching itself towards the sun.

The air around is a thin fog, just above the tall buildings: a collection of dust particles constantly whipped into the atmosphere, car fumes, smoke from burning bushes and activities from mechanized farming, bush clearing and activities related to construction of bridges for flyovers are also ongoing.

Both sides of the highway is littered with small and medium scale businesses providing daily and regular services in transport accessories for cars, tricycles, supermarket stores, appliances, petrol station, trucks and heavy duty vehicles with sand and stone pyramids packed on the shoulders of the roads, waiting for their next instructions or next port of call.
As we drive on highway 8 towards the airport, you begin to head south of India towards Jaipur.

All kinds of Vehicular contraptions can be seen all over India, especially in the industrial zones. Quarries for breaking stones, gravels etc., into finer bits and granular chunks produce a lot of dusty air. You find bikers covering their noses.

Scattered private buildings with beautifully decorated walls roll past as we gain speed on the highway; hills after hills similar to what you find in Okene and Lokoja in Nigeria on your way to Abuja dominate the stretch of land. Trees, shrubs, hills, high tension wires, thatch houses, tall buildings still under construction, dilapidated structures of all kinds, old and new buildings can be found within the same radius.

Every Stateline I crossed, I get a ping on my phone alerting me to read my sms – a network announcing “Welcome to India” from Airtel India or “Namaste” from AR-AIROAM. For example, when I got to Rajasthan I got a “Namaste” greeting but when I landed in Delhi I got a “Welcome to India” from AirtelNG.

For every patch of empty brown grassland you pass, you pass an equal amount of land bearing the weight of colourful architectural designs. Trees commonly cover the front of houses as though shielding it from the direct rays of the sun when it faces that direction as you drive past. No wonder some of their house retain their colour and beauty.

Further away from the city, sales of beautiful colourful items, sculptures, carvings, etc., are prominently displayed on both sides of the highway. As we drive further out of the main of city Gurgaon, trucks, tankers, trailers become a common fixture building up into a series of traffic lines. Road diversion signs are commonplace, exacerbating the traffic flow. The 911 trucks equivalent in Nigeria stretch as far as the eyes can see: long school buses, small cars, trucks, trailers, high-end vehicles tail each other bumper-to-bumper. The trucks are painted in bright beautiful colours, sometimes adorned with rich Hindu words in red, orange, white or pink. Where words are lacking, bright paintings of well decorated and richly adorned India women carrying baskets on their heads is also depicted on the body of these trucks. It leaves you with a heady feeling.

As we inch closer to the mouth of the diversion, I find that the resulting traffic was due to a tragic road accident caused by a truck driver who ran over a bike rider, chopping off his head. A large crowd of people have gathered; their faces betray an array of emotions: anger, sadness; many including myself bewildered at how this could have happened. The dead man (who seemed young-looking from the sneakers he wore, white shirt, colourful wrist bands), was covered with another white short over his non-existent head. I hope he gets a decent burial and the accident thoroughly investigated to determine the cause and met out justice as applicable.

As soon as we were cleared to move, our driver inched further on and enter the place called Dharuhera, a local town after Gurgaon, which unexpectedly open its doors into more high-rise buildings. Our guide tells us that the Japanese and Korean companies have made this town their manufacturing abode, their companies spotted along the roads.

Gradually we leave the houses and people behind and drive through a stretch of desert land. Finally we reach another town, Neemrana, another town on the desert road. This place is a Japanese zone, we are told. The area feels like Bauchi/Azare of Nigeria: sunny, hilly environment, sparse greenery, scotched earth, livestock grazing and sun-dried hays litter the length of it as we travel on Highway 8 which seems to be a long continuous stretch of well-made road sneaking through all these country sides. Old, peeled-off painted Industrial buildings litter the stretch of land and open spaces.

Marble factories can be found. The business of re-cycling of papers, nylons and plastics seems to be a constant activity going on here. Another common feature is buildings broken down halfway (perhaps they will be rebuilt? Or is this the pattern…).

Neemrana is a long stretch of arid land notable for animal rearing and livestock grazing, industrial plants: home of Michelin Tyre Manufacturing company.

We pass so many other country towns similar to Neemrana until finally we reach Rajasthan – The land of HOT SPICES! Let Part 5 take you there. Click the link below.


Attribution for pix 1 and 2: Tripadvisor.com; Pranavbhasin.com